Why Won't My Garage Door Open or Close?

Safety first: if the door is heavy, crooked, or only rises part-way, stop pressing the button — running the opener against a failed spring or cable causes more damage and can be dangerous. When in doubt, disconnect the opener (pull the red release cord) and call a professional.

1. Dead remote or keypad battery

If the wall button works but the remote doesn't, it's almost always a dead remote battery or a remote that lost its programming. Swap the battery first — the cheapest possible fix.

2. No power to the opener

Check that the opener is plugged in and the outlet has power (a tripped GFCI or breaker is common after a storm). Test the outlet with another device.

3. Broken torsion spring

If you heard a loud bang and now the door is far too heavy or only lifts a few inches, the spring snapped. This is the #1 cause of a "dead" door — and not a DIY job. See spring replacement →

4. Snapped or frayed cable

If one side drops lower than the other or a steel cable hangs loose, a lift cable has failed. The door is now unbalanced — don't operate it. See cable repair →

5. Door off the track

If the door is jammed at an angle or a roller popped out of the channel, it's off-track. Forcing the opener bends panels. See off-track repair →

6. Misaligned or dirty safety sensors

If the door opens fine but won't close (or reverses immediately), the photo-eye sensors near the floor are misaligned or dirty. Wipe both lenses and make sure they face each other with steady lights.

7. Travel / force limits need adjusting

If the door reverses before closing or stops short, the opener's travel or force settings have drifted — common with temperature swings. This is a quick professional adjustment.

8. Lock mode or vacation lock is on

Many wall consoles have a "lock" button that disables remotes. If remotes suddenly stopped but the wall button works, press and hold the lock button to toggle it off.

9. Worn opener gear, trolley, or logic board

If the motor hums or runs but the door doesn't move, an internal opener part (gear, trolley, or board) has worn out. A tech can tell you quickly whether a repair or a new opener is the better value. See opener repair →

When to call a pro

Battery, power, lock mode and dirty sensors are safe to check yourself. Anything involving springs, cables, or an off-track door stores serious tension and should be handled by a licensed, insured technician. If your car is stuck or the door won't lock at night, our Atlanta line is open 24/7. See 24/7 emergency repair →

Frequently asked questions

Works on the wall button but not the remote — why?

Usually a dead remote battery or a remote that needs reprogramming. If the wall button works, your door, springs and opener are fine — start with a new battery.

Door opens a few inches then stops?

That's the classic sign of a broken torsion spring — the opener can't lift the full weight alone. Stop using the door and call a professional; don't force it.

Door won't close all the way?

Most often the floor-level safety sensors are misaligned or dirty, or the travel limit needs adjusting. Clean the lenses and confirm steady lights; if it still reverses, have it adjusted.